November 15, 2015

Apple Weekend 2015

Last month we got together with friends and family for what has become a special tradition. Even with babies and families and with a few hours between us all, we know that at least for one weekend we will all get together and catch up and do some really good eating! This was the twelfth year. Our tradition is gaining attendees; Brenna and Cassidy's friends Aaron and Neary decided to not only come up from Boston for the weekend but also to each participate by making a dish for the big meal this year. Here are some pictures of the apple fun...
It was so cold! Willem was so distressed by his cold hands while trying to pick apples, that my mother offered him her socks and he accepted. He was quite a lot happier after that.
 Baby fun! These two are ten days apart.
And for the food...

Meg made a sweet-salty salad we gobbled up first of roasted squash, brie, candied nuts, apple, and dried cranberries, with a maple vinaigrette. Mmm.
Aaron assembling his soup right before serving. He knows Cass because they worked in kitchens together. I could tell he knew what he was doing by his perfectly diced pink chard I saw when I walked through the kitchen earlier in the afternoon. He is placing Hen of the Woods mushrooms into Lapsong Souchong broth along with the chard and flaky salt... I am sure I don't remember it all. But it was so interesting and thoroughly thought out. I ate every bite, mushrooms and all, and that's saying something. 
Bren made sweet-potato bacon cakes with fried beet curls and a bourbon-habanero aioli.
Matt made really tasty Cornish pasty with beer-braised beef short rib, Stilton mac and cheese, and pickled caramelized onions. The pastry opened up in the oven rather than staying sealed, so didn't have the look he intended, but it was an awesome combination of flavors. 
 Gord made butternut-squash risotto spiked with truffle oil.
I made this Smitten Kitchen blue cheese and red potato tart that I can't get enough of, using our potatoes. I paired it with some greens with this shallot dressing.
Cassidy made this fancy scallop and pork lardon topped with a cider reduction on wilted leeks.
Neary made the only (!) dessert: apple-cinnamon ice cream with a sesame brittle, paired (I think spur of the moment) with a whiskey that was a very nice end to the evening.

Monte Cristos

What's not to like about a ham and cheese sandwich on French toast? It's a rich, buttery sandwiches-for-dinner option.
 
Monte Cristo Sandwiches
from marthastewart.com 

Sandwiches
Dijon mustard 
8 slices bread  
Swiss cheese slices 
~1/2 lb ham

Batter:
4 large eggs 
1/2 C milk 
1 t salt  
1/2 t pepper 
1/4 t ground nutmeg   

For pan:
4 T butter 

To serve:
Confectioner's sugar 

Spread mustard on bread. Layer 4 bread slices with Swiss cheese, ham, and cheese again. Place remaining bread slices on top.

In a shallow dish, whisk together dipping batter. Dip each sandwich in the egg mixture, turning to coat well.

In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat. When butter is foamy, add the sandwiches, and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes total. Serve immediately, dusted with confectioners' sugar if desired.

July 26, 2015

Cherry Tomatoes

At least once every summer when I was a kid my parents would convince me to try a cherry tomato, often from our own garden, telling me, "they are just sooo sweet!" I would believe it, and I wanted to like them, so I would try one, and gag over it. It took me till adulthood until I really ate tomatoes, and a little longer till I ate them raw. I'm so glad Willem is more adventurous than I was as a kid. The number of cherry tomatoes he eats makes up for all the ones I missed out on. They are indeed one of his favorite vegetables (fruits?). Last year for his birthday dinner we had ribs, corn on the cob, and "orange cherry tomatoes, raw" per request. (This year's birthday it was gnocchi and orange cherry tomatoes, raw. Whenever I go and cook cherry tomatoes he is not too impressed with me.) One time at the grocery store when Willem was about 2, he was in the cart and as we were waiting in line at the deli he was snacking on whole cherry tomatoes; one of them squirted seeds all over the both of us as he bit down on it and him cracked up. So they're fun, too. Cute pic I can't resist from 2012:
They are a staple around here this time of year. I love beefy slabs of full-size tomatoes in caprese salad, on a burger, or on a bagel of cream cheese sprinkled with salt...but we have a special place in our hearts around here for cherry tomatoes. While my tomatoes are doing pitifully overall in the garden this summer, for the last few years I have planted mostly or all cherry tomato plants rather than full-size ones because that is what we really like (and I've had better luck with them getting ripe before being eaten by bugs). They are so little and juicy and perfect. We'll eat them in multiple meals each week.

I love the exuberant mix of colors in the summer. The orange ones are Willem's favorites. Also the "black" (purplish) ones. Eating them one after another like berries on the way home from an awesome farm stand near us recently: "Oh I just had a really good one!-- I don't know what it was. Was it a black one Mommy? Those ones are really good."
I read that good quality cherry tomatoes can be had year-round. I'm not sure if that's true but luckily, it's not a question I have to bother myself about now. Now is the time to seize the day by making all your favorite things that use cherry tomatoes (and corn, blueberries, peaches, broccoli, eggplant, beans, basil, and just about everything else that grows). Some of my very favorite uses for cherry tomatoes other than snacking: this Greek salad is delicious, this favorite free-form lasagne, this Smitten Kitchen pasta salad I've loved lately (I am sure they'd be delicious roasted as she calls for but I actually toss the tomatoes in raw because of time, and because they don't need anything to sweeten them this time of year), super sweet sprinkled on a pizza, scattered over fried eggs with some grated cheese, and for a gorgeous dish to celebrate the bounty of everything right now, Nicoise salad.

July 24, 2015

Poached Eggs with Roasted Tomatoes

This is tagged as breakfast, but it's one of my favorite breakfasts for dinner. I've made it several times when it was just Willem and me for dinner because it's so simple and comforting it feels like I'm not cooking. The recipe called for English muffins, but we don't usually have those in the house....but something we do usually have is homemade biscuits in the freezer, and while I am sure English muffins would be fine, I think biscuits are the thing for this. Along with this sauce and this pasta, this is another winter use for any cherry tomatoes you might manage to stash in the freezer over the summer.  
                 
Poached Eggs with Roasted Tomatoes
from www.wholeliving.com
This serves 2 people for a meal. Adjust number of eggs and biscuits (and tomatoes if necessary) to serve more.  

1 pint cherry tomatoes (10 oz.)
1 T extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 T fresh thyme leaves, or up to 1 t dried
4 large eggs
2 English muffins or biscuits, split and toasted
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Arrange tomatoes in a baking dish. Drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss with thyme. Roast until tomatoes begin to burst, about 20 minutes. Let cool slightly.
  
In a medium straight-sided skillet, heat 2 inches of water over medium until bubbles cover bottom and sides of pan. Crack each egg one at a time into a small bowl/small Pyrex measuring cup. Gently pour each egg into pan, leaving room between them. Cook eggs, undisturbed, until white is just set and yolk is still loose, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to gently release eggs from bottom of pan, if necessary. Using a slotted spoon, remove eggs from water. Blot bottom of spoon on a paper towel to remove excess water before serving.
  
Serve eggs over biscuit halves. Season with salt and pepper. Top with roasted tomatoes.

March 16, 2015

Roasted Cherry-Tomato Sauce


Pretty summer tomatoes:
Just for fun:

 Frozen tomatoes going in:
 Coming out:

I love this recipe's hands-off simplicity, the sweetness tempered with a little vinegar, the bursting tomatoes. We had lots of cherry tomatoes in the summer so we'd make this to use a quantity of them at once. We still had a bunch of them in the freezer till recently, and this was a great use for frozen tomatoes since they burst anyway. The sauce has more liquid to it when made with frozen tomatoes, but that didn't seem like a bad thing. 

The notes with the original recipe suggested in addition to serving this sauce over pasta, to have it on crusty bread or scrambled eggs or with soft cheeses. I've only tried it with pasta so far. I made this at our Apple Weekend tasting dinner last fall. Feels like nourishing comfort food garnished with some shaved Parmesan and a sprinkle of salt.

Roasted Cherry-Tomato Sauce
from marthastewart.com

1 lb. 6 oz. cherry tomatoes
3 cloves garlic, smashed
1/2 C e-v olive oil
2 T balsamic vinegar
1 T fresh thyme (or about 1 t dried)
2 t packed light brown sugar
1 t coarse salt

Preheat oven to 325. Mix tomatoes and garlic in a nonreactive 9 x 13 baking dish. Whisk together remaining ingredients. Drizzle over tomato mixture. 

Bake until tomatoes are softened and caramelized, about 1 hour. Serve warm over pasta topped with Parmesan, salt, and pepper, or at room temperature (see other serving ideas above).

March 13, 2015

Buvette Waffles

The weekend after Thanksgiving last year, Willem got to spend some quality time with his cousin in Vermont and Gordie and I got to go to New York City. Naturally, one of the main bits of planning we did ahead of time was to decide where to eat. It was hard to know where to begin, but we certainly enjoyed the places we landed at. 

The best breakfast was at Buvette in Greenwich Village. It is a French gastroteque and everything about it was adorable and perfect, from the tiny little menu to the glasses of fresh-squeezed orange juice that I ordered a second of despite the price, to the fact that we were dining all but on the laps of the people next to us, something we discovered was the case everywhere we ate that weekend. We enjoyed fancy, perfect cappuccino, miniature croissants with dabs of jam and butter, and I had the single little Belgian waffle above. I could have eaten two, but I think it is a sign of a good restaurant, to end with the nice feeling of wanting just another taste of something so delicious. It was oozing with melting butter, then had a generous dollop of creme fraiche on it, was topped with both a puddle of jam and a nice pile of fresh raspberries and blackberries, then dusted with confectioner's sugar. Every bite was divine-- it definitely did not need syrup. So a few times since, I've tried to replicate the Buvette waffle (result below). I think I've done pretty well, the one complaint being that our waffle maker does not make quite as deeply textured waffles. 
My Version of Buvette Waffles

freshly made Belgian waffles
butter
creme fraiche
raspberry/berry jam
fresh raspberries
fresh blackberries
powdered sugar

Atop each individual serving of still-hot waffle, spread generously with butter, then top with a dollop of creme fraiche, next to a spoonful of jam. Top this with a mixture of berries, then sprinkle with powdered sugar. Enjoy!

March 11, 2015

Wine Club



(Don't worry, I've had this post in draft form for over nine months...just catching up.)

We went to a wine dinner once at the home of one of my husband's coworkers. The meal was nice but the wine was the star. He was really into wine and served us so many different amazing wines. This was someone who actually cellars wine, and has a wine fridge, and had multiple years of pricey Opus One, and even opened some on an impulse later in the evening for us to try. He was so generous and it was a lot of fun. Throughout the dinner he and his brother talked about the wine club they used to be a part of when they lived in Europe. I thought the idea of a wine club sounded like so much fun. What a fun topic to study and the idea of getting together in a room with people who also really enjoy drinking wine to try it and talk about it seemed like a great way to learn. 

So after that evening, I was inspired to start our own wine club. I thought, this is a hobby we can fit into our lives. This is something we can do after Willem goes to bed at night. Anyone  who is around is in our "club," but my sister and brother-in-law and my mom and our friends Meg and Matt are the ones we often taste with. We have wine club at least a few times a year, after dinner. At each wine club, we usually pick the theme for the next one. Sometimes our themes are really broad, like the time pictured above where we just chose Malbec, since we just thought it would be nice to learn more about this varietal. And sometimes we try to be more specific, like when we did Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs. The possibilities for themes are endless of course. 

Everybody coming usually procures and brings a bottle that fits the theme. As we tasted, I used to sometimes open up a wine textbook (these exist if you have family who attended culinary school) or Wine for Dummies and read some facts about the variety of wine we were tasting. One thing I learned this way is that Cotes du Rhone means the banks of the Rhone, which is where the grapes that make that wine grow, though anyone who knows any French would have known that. But even though I enjoyed being nerdy in the name of our edification, it's hard to learn anything about wine that sticks just by reading about it. Now we pretty much just focus on tasting itself to provide the wine knowledge. We open them all up, and we choose one to start with and pour everybody a taste. The order might be intentional if we're moving from wines that are lighter to fuller, or just random as it was with the Malbec tasting. We pour everybody a taste and everybody swirls and sniffs and talks about what they smell.
Sometimes we get out the tasting wheel to give us ideas of what to notice in the wine. It goes from general categories of what you might smell in a wine at the center of the wheel, like fruity, woody, spicy, and then outward into more specific descriptors like citrus, berry, and dried fruit, and then to one more level with possibilities like blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, black currant. It can help to pinpoint exactly what you smell in a wine and get you going when you are short on descriptors. Of course, the wheel has just some suggestions and it doesn't include everything, but it's a kind of a dummy's guide to your senses. Some of us need no help at all in this department. My mom is soooo not a wine snob, but she has a ridiculously good sense of smell, so she's always incredibly quick and on target when sticking her nose in a glass. My sister, who went to culinary school and took wine tasting classes, will sometimes get frustrated with how immediately and confidently my mom will state what she "gets" from a wine. Because she's always right on. Or at least once she's named some descriptors, it is really hard to come up with anything else. But I find it helpful. And entertaining. A favorite time was when she sniffed a Sauvignon Blanc (I think) and said, "Stone. Wet stone. Like, right after it rains. With moss on it." Seriously, she said that. And because of it, I still remember the minerally, clean, fresh taste of that wine, even though I can't remember what it's called. 

Which brings me to...we usually keep some sort of notes when we do Wine Club. It's nice to have a record of what you liked and what you've tried. (I thought it would be cool at one point to have a really clear and coherent record of what we've tasted and how much we liked it or not since it can be hard to remember, so at one point I got an iPad app specifically for wine tasting, but it's not great and I find a notebook to still be the best for documenting and referring back to tasting notes.) 
My brother-in-law copied for us the above wine rating system and note-taking form which I think were developed by a couple of NECI professors. We think about these general categories when tasting, taking notes on, and sometimes giving a number rating (my engineer husband always uses number ratings and usually no words in his tasting notes, while my notes look the exact opposite with exclamations like "Blueberry pie!" but rarely include any numbers). The categories are Appearance, Nose, Palate, and Exceptional Qualities. We all are in general agreement that we don't care about appearance, unless a wine looks appalling somehow. And I find I really have nothing to say about the appearance. (Red. Dark red. Ruby red. Opaque red.) Since I don't use numbers in my notes, I just skip that category altogether. Gordie's solution is to just give everything a 2 for appearance so it doesn't mess up his rating system but keeps them all equal unless something stands out. The exceptional qualities category is for if something about the wine really catches you off guard and stands out in a good way. The descriptors on the rubric are a little ridiculous (Elegant, Noble, Distinguished). So that leaves the two categories that matter: smell and taste, or Nose and Palate. It is nice that the chart reminds you that Palate consists of not just taste, but also body (how it feels in your mouth, thin or full, tannic or not), balance, and finish (aftertaste, what you're left with after a sip). It is nice to think of this framework when evaluating wine, even if you can't focus on each category individually.   

Tips for wine tasting:
  • Nice to have a glass for each person for each wine to be able to sip back and forth with them all in front of you, but not necessary.
  • Have a simple snack like plain crackers, and water for everyone. You can wine taste with a meal, but it's easier to just focus on the wine. Trying out pairings is a whole other thing that can be fun. 
  • Pick a theme or a type that you want to learn about.
  • Every person, or every couple, brings a bottle that fits the theme. If you're worried about opening tons of wine and having it leftover, have everybody take a bottle home with them.
  • Be aware that it can be hard to keep track of how much wine you've had if you keep sipping a little of this and a little of that after your initial tasting of each.
Possible Themes:
Cotes du Rhone
Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley Cabernet
Napa Valley Chardonnay
White Bourdeaux
Red Bourdeaux
White Burgundy (French Chardonnay)
Italian wines
Malbec
Sparkling
Chianti 
Zinfandels
Rose

So, here are the notes from our Malbec tasting some time ago... we did a wide-open Malbec theme. Every one of the five wines we brought was from Mendoza, Argentina, which helped us to learn that a lot of Malbec comes from that region.
My sister using the Vinturi
Acidic, not great: Esencias de la Tierra, 2011
Leather, smoke, dried fruit
"Spring bark" -- my mom
astringent
Vinturi opened up taste a lot-- deeper level 
The vinturi is this gadget that feels foolish, because it's one of those things that no one really needs. Yet, it is pretty fascinating how much it opens up the nose on a wine compared to a glass poured straight from the bottle. It aerates the wine as you pour it and really works well. It can be less than elegant, between the gurgling sound as you pour and the little bit of wine that drips out after you've poured through it. So it's helpful to have a glass ready to set it in after using it. But we pulled it out for this wine and it made a big difference. 

Okay: Tiasta Bodega Cruz de Piedra, 2012
Floral, fruity, smoky nose at once, none overpowering the others
Seemed more refined than the first, subtler nose
More complex taste, silkier body

Very nice: La Posta Pizzella Family Vineyard, 2010
Plummy and smoky, the smoke more forward which I liked (I also tend to like leathery and spicy)
Rounder than the Tiasta which was the only keeper up to this point.

My favorite: Mountain Door Bodegas y Vinedos, 2011
A nice gentle, round, barnyardy-ness to it
Barnyardy seems like a weird descriptor and maybe some people wouldn't like it, but I really do. I like Pinot Noirs and Cab Francs that have that kind of earthiness to them, too. 

Gone bad: Reserva Nieto Senetiner, 2010
I wrote intense, musty, and was working my way to the word chemically, and my mom said "witch hazel." We decided this one was "corked"/had turned. This actually does happen occasionally. People talk about wine being "drinkable." This one really wasn't drinkable, which was sad because it may have been pleasant at some point but had gone bad.
So then we sat and sipped some more while we chatted, making a good dent in La Posta and the Mountain Door and going back and forth on which of the two was the winner for each of our tastes, letting the others just sit.

Black-Bean, Spinach, and Corn Enchiladas




This is a hot, satisfying vegetarian meal that we really enjoy. Good with a simple salad on the side.

Black Bean, Spinach, and Corn Enchiladas 
from marthastewart.com

2 T olive oil 
2 t ground cumin  
1/4 C flour 
1/4 C tomato paste  
14.5 oz. chicken or vegetable broth 
Coarse salt and ground pepper 
3 C grated pepper Jack cheese (12 oz.)  
1 15-oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained 
10 oz. frozen chopped spinach  
10 oz. frozen corn 
6 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated  
16 6-in. corn tortillas 

Make sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium. Add 1 teaspoon cumin, flour, and tomato paste; cook, whisking, 1 minute. Whisk in broth and 3/4 cup water; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, and cook until slightly thickened, 5 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

Make filling: In a large bowl, combine 2 cups cheese, beans, spinach, corn, scallion whites, and remaining 1 teaspoon cumin; season with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil two 8-inch square baking dishes (or one 9x13 one and one 8x8 one works; instead of dividing the enchiladas evenly, you can do 10 in the large pan and 6 in the small one); set aside. Stack tortillas, and wrap in damp paper towels; microwave on high for 1 minute. Divide filling evenly among all tortillas (about a heaping 1/3 cup each); roll up tightly and arrange, seam side down, in prepared baking dishes.

Dividing evenly, sprinkle enchiladas with remaining 1 cup cheese, and top with sauce (can be made ahead and just topped with sauce right before baking). Bake, uncovered, until hot and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool 5 minutes; serve garnished with scallion greens.