September 29, 2014

Apple Weekend, 2014

 
He was very proud of pulling this wagon across the apple orchard.
Two weekends ago we got together with some of our favorite people to cook and feast. It was the 11th annual (would have been 12th but it didn't happen last year) Apple Weekend, although this year apples only made it into two of the nine dishes served. We still went apple picking just for fun, but we now focus on a meal of small plates featuring anything seasonal and local. We had some delicious dishes, both creative and simple, this year. 

This was the menu: 
I made a small bite to start: a potato latke for everyone (made with the red potatoes Willem and I dug up a few weeks ago from our garden), topped with a smear of sour cream and a dollop of applesauce that Gordie and Willem made. Latkes are so good. They always make me think of those potato sticks that came in a little box that I always managed to get and devour at Halloween when I was a kid. So good with the tart, unsweetened, first-batch-of-the-season applesauce and the sour cream. 
Then, Matt made a quite-spicy lentil sambar. He looked in an authentic Indian cookbook and made this using butternut squash among other things.
Next I did a pasta with a sweet roasted-cherry-tomato sauce. I roasted mixed red and orange tomatoes from our garden and topped with some shaved Parmesan. 
I really loved my sister's dish this year, a composed, complete little plate. She roasted turkey breast and topped it with slices of Gruyere and crispy onions. On the homemade roll she put an onion-apple jam she made. She served it with just a few crispy fries she made with potatoes from her garden. She paired it with a hard cider.
Next was a Cassidy classic: roasted duck breast atop a super-smooth parsnip puree, with a cherry compote. He paired it with a Merlot.
In the dessert portion of the evening, peaches which are plentiful right now, had a starring role. Gordie participated with a peach sorbet made with North Carolina peaches that his aunt and uncle had just brought us when they visited from North Carolina. He scooped out the peach halves to get the fruit to make the sorbet, froze them, and then spooned the sorbet into the frozen shells to serve. He thought it would be fun to serve the pits right on the sorbet so it really looked like a peach half. 
Next I made this delicious galette with New Hampshire peaches. It has an almond paste beneath the peaches that completes it. The crust is my own favorite crust recipe, but the filling came from a Smitten Kitchen cherry galette recipe that we love. 
Next, Meg made what she would only tell us was frozen custard until it was on the table. It was gorgeous and so rich in color, so between that and her secretiveness, I guessed right: beets! It also had chocolate in it, which really balanced out the beet really well and added to the color and texture. She garnished with a mint leaf and a candied beet. I wouldn't want to eat a big bowl of it but it was a deep interesting flavor and I really enjoyed each of the few bites. 
My sister finished off the evening with a totally comforting peach-strawberry clafoutis (the strawberries ones she had frozen from her garden earlier in the summer) with melting buttermilk ice cream on top of it, drizzled with burnt caramel. 

I think it gets better each year!

September 20, 2014

Asparagus Pizza


I'm about two seasons behind, but had to share this Epicurious find that we made a whole bunch during asparagus season.

Start with rolling out your favorite pizza dough (which for me is no longer this one, so I'll have to post my now-favorite sometime). 

Atop your dough of choice: first, brush it with a garlic oil. Wowee. I wonder if we should start doing this on every pizza. Such a tasty flavor base. Then, green onions, or chives if you've got a limitless quantity of them in your garden, followed by mozzarella, slices of cooked potato, and goat cheese. Finally, some sliced asparagus tossed in oil, grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper. It's especially easy to assemble if you have the potato cooked and the asparagus sliced ahead of dinner time. The whole pizza is so flavorful. It's a new springtime favorite here. 
Before cooking
Finished
Why I went to my Epicurious app in the first place and searched for asparagus recipes and then on a whim, "asparagus pizza," was that as of this summer we have perennial asparagus growing steps away from our house! Two years ago, we added two more raised beds and planted asparagus crowns in one of them. We watched them and let them be to do what they would that season and the season after. But this season we harvested for the first time. Here were the thrilling beginnings in May:
And here's what they looked like a little later in the summer. We stopped harvesting them after a few weeks so they can build themselves up for more harvesting in future seasons (I'm told we have decades of asparagus to look forward to, so I can be patient). It was hard to stop breaking off each spear as it became pencil-tall, but they are sort of lovely with their lacy fronds edging the garden, especially now in September when the fronds are densely lush and thick.
Asparagus, Fingerling Potato, and Goat Cheese Pizza
from Epicurious.com

5 oz. potatoes
dough for one pizza
2 T olive oil
1 garlic clove, pressed or minced
4 green onions (or handful of chives), thinly sliced
1 1/2 C (6 oz.) grated mozzarella 
4 oz. goat cheese, crumbled
8 oz. asparagus, trimmed, each spear cut in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 2- to 3-inch pieces
1/2 C grated Parmesan cheese

Put potatoes in small saucepan, cover with water, sprinkle with salt, and boil until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain. Cool. Cut potatoes into thin slices.

Preheat oven to 425. Preheat pizza stone and/or otherwise prepare pizza dough as you prefer. Mix 1 tablespoon olive oil and garlic in a small bowl. Brush garlic oil over dough. Sprinkle 3/4 of green onions/chives over, then mozzarella, then potato slices, then goat cheese. Toss asparagus and other 1 tablespoon oil in a bowl. Scatter asparagus over pizza. Sprinkle with Parmesan, then lightly with salt and generously with pepper.

Bake until crust is browned and asparagus is tender, about 18 minutes. Slice, sprinkle with remaining green onions, and serve.

Cherry-Almond Galette

I have been on a bit of a Smitten Kitchen kick since I got The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook as a birthday gift from my dad. I've liked every recipe I've tried from the book, but I can tell you that it now opens naturally to the sweet cherry and almond galette. It is amazing. We were planning to have a picnic on our town green the summer evening I first made this, and the galette made it even more scrumptious to look forward to.


There's something about being outdoors that makes food taste even better. For this picnic we had: BLTs, mixed olives, really ripe sweet-smelling melon, some sliced prosciutto to go both with the melon and with Cambezola, a delicious cheese we can always find. My mom says that Cambezola is so good she wants to roll in it. We did not roll in the cheese but we did enjoy it very much with prosciutto wrapped around it (or, in Willem's case, in chunks all by itself until we stopped him). And the cherry galette...I'm so glad I have the cookbook for this recipe alone. I used my own favorite pie pastry, so I can't speak for that aspect of her recipe, but the quick easy almond paste smeared on the bottom was amazing with the cherries and the sugared crust. And the bites of cherry between two layers of crust near the edge, so good. You can pick it up by the slice and eat it with your hands-- the perfect picnic treat. The galette did not last long in our house afterward. (I made this galette this fall as well with New Hampshire peaches in place of the cherries I just stopped being able to find at the store, and that was delicious too-- the peaches almost as great with the almond as were the cherries.)

We had such a nice summer evening, letting Willem stay up past his bed time riding his bike on the nice path in town, including straight through whatever puddles he could find.
Cherry-Almond Galette
from the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook

Pastry
1/2 recipe pie pastry, chilled

Filling
1/3 C sliced, slivered, or chopped almonds
1 1/2 t flour
3 T sugar
1 T butter
1/4 t almond extract
1 large egg white (save yolk to brush crust)
1 lb. sweet cherries*

To finish
1 large egg yolk
1 t water
coarse sugar to sprinkle
confectioner's sugar, to dust for serving

*Recently, Gordie and Willem were delighted to have bought a cherry pitter at a kitchen store. It pushes out the pit, leaving a whole cherry. I haven't made the galette since getting the pitter, but it would definitely look cool and even more rustic with whole cherries. It also works fine to halve the cherries and pluck out the pits with your thumb.

Make pastry and chill.

Make filling: Finely grind almonds and flour in a food processor. Mix in sugar, butter, and extract, then egg white. Blend until smooth. Cover, and chill until needed. 

Assemble: Preheat oven to 400. On floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch round. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Spread the almond filling evenly over the bottom of the dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Scatter the cherries on top. Fold the border over the filling, pleating the edge to make it fit. Whisk egg yolk with water, and brush crust with mixture. Sprinkle crust with coarse sugar. 

Bake the galette until the filling is puffed and the crust is golden brown, about 30 to 40 minutes, rotating the galette halfway through. Cool, and serve dusted with confectioner's sugar.