April 30, 2013

Mediterranean Pasta



This is a great example of how pasta can be tossed with any number of yummy things and then rounded out with oil and Parmesan cheese to make a really satisfying and easy meal.

The original recipe called for spaghetti, but as much as I like spaghetti with tomato sauce, I didn't like it here; it makes it hard to toss well enough to fully integrate everything, plus all the good stuff (tomatoes, artichokes, olives) fall to the bottom of the dish. So, despite the photo we have here, I prefer a medium-sized pasta for this.

We had this last weekend, along with a spring salad of greens and grilled asparagus topped with Parmesan cheese.



Mediterranean Pasta
slightly adapted from wholeliving.com

12 oz. pasta
olive oil
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced lengthwise
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 C dry white wine
1 can artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed, and quartered lengthwise
1/3 C pitted kalamata olives, halved
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1/4 C grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
1/2 C fresh basil leaves, sliced

Cook pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving a cup of pasta water.

In a large skillet, heat onion and garlic with ~1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add wine and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes.

Stir in artichokes and cook until starting to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add olives and half of the tomatoes; cook until tomatoes start to break down, 1 to 2 minutes. Add pasta to skillet. Stir in remaining tomatoes, ~1 T oil, cheese, and basil. Thin with some of reserved pasta water if necessary to coat the spaghetti. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with extra Parmesan cheese. 

April 25, 2013

Pizza with Roasted Vegetables and Ricotta



I like a lot of different pizza combinations, but this is probably my favorite right now. I have never in general been a big fan of "white pizza." But this one is such a substantial pizza-- filling and satisfying and full of vegetables. I don't find myself missing the tomatoes. This pizza is sort of a whole other thing. I like to pile on a nice thick layer of vegetables. And the multiple layers of cheese don't hurt. It's so tasty with the puffed-up, baked ricotta sandwiched between layers of mozzarella, accented by a sprinkling of coarse salt and earthy rosemary. The beauty is you could use any combination of roasted vegetables you want or have, so it's a nice go-to meal for cleaning up odds and ends in your fridge. Or make a dinner involving roasted vegetables the night before, then plan on this the next night with the leftovers.  










Roasted Vegetable and Ricotta Pizza
slightly adapted from marthastewart.com
  • Pizza dough, risen and ready to use (dough recipe makes enough for two pizzas)
  • 8 oz. grated mozzarella
  • 1 C ricotta cheese
  • fresh or dried rosemary leaves
  • oil, coarse salt, and ground pepper
  • any combination roasted vegetables, such as this:
    • 1 lb. butternut squash, cut in 1 1/2-in. pieces
    • 1 lb. red new potatoes, quartered
    • 1 medium red onion, quartered
    • 3 medium carrots, halved lengthwise if thick, and cut into 1 1/2-in. lengths
    • 2 - 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 
For vegetables: heat oven to 425/450. Toss vegetables in oil and salt and pepper in a roasting pan. Roast until tender and beginning to brown, 40 to 50 minutes, tossing occasionally. (Best to do ahead.) Let cool, then coarsely chop the vegetables.

For pizza: Roll out dough on floured surface. Put on pizza stone.

Sprinkle with half the mozzarella, then lots of vegetables. Dollop with ricotta, sprinkle with remaining mozzarella and rosemary. Drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Bake until golden, about 20 minutes.

You can use any excess roasted veggies not accommodated by the pizza topped with cheddar cheese in an omelet the next morning. 

April 17, 2013

Spring is so Exciting!

Tricycles come out...

 Crocuses bloom...
 
 Our seedlings have sprouted!
 We get out the sandbox toys, even if it's still chilly...
 Our chives are coming...
 Signs of strawberries...
 And garlic!
 And-- hopefully not a pipe dream-- my peach tree starting to bud...
 The remaining snow is relegated to the shadiest corners...
 The brook is loud again...
 And the light is just so pretty.
 

Happy spring!

April 15, 2013

Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, Pizza Dough, and Favorite Toppings



 
This pizza-dough recipe comes from Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, one of my very favorite food-related books.



It is well-written. This is a book full of carefully crafted thoughts and essays by a talented writer. After reading this book, I read one of her novels, The Poisonwood Bible, which was also a really good book.




Ready for toppings
The gist of AVM is that Kingsolver and her family devote a year to experiencing what it is like to grow and raise most of their own food and buy the rest locally, aside from a few far-away necessities like flour, coffee, and chocolate. They roast and freeze their own peppers, slaughter their own turkeys, freeze and can tomatoes, can tomato sauce, hang garlic in a braid in their kitchen, store carrots in sand in their basement. She says in the book that through all of their gardening, planting, harvesting, and preserving, for "several full-steam-ahead weeks last summer, in countless different ways, we'd made dinner ahead" for the winter. So when people ask what local fare they could possibly be eating in January, her answer is "Everything." Spaghetti sauce over pasta doesn't seem like such a lame, quick meal when you've made the sauce yourself from ripe tomatoes. If you've thought ahead in the spring and summer, you have all sorts of great local options come winter. 

I had never thought that much about preserving when we rented a house, other than jam and pesto and cutting the kernels off of sweet corn in late summer and freezing it. Even while I had had my eyes opened by getting to know and eating in abundance all those CSA vegetables from May to October, I had bought into the assumption that because I lived in New Hampshire, winter was the season of not eating nearly as well or as deliciously. But Ms. Kingsolver opened my eyes to the fact that it didn't have to be that way! I could take charge and plan ahead!  

She elevated the level of thought I gave to my garden after we bought a house, helping me to think of gardening as where cooking begins, and preserving as a natural offshoot of gardening. I got excited about the romance of feeding us-- at least in part-- on what I had grown and tended in our own backyard, and about more purposefully seeking out the wonderful local foods we have here in the Upper Valley. For the last few years, our food life has improved as I've been learning to freeze plum tomatoes and cherry tomatoes whole, freeze trimmed, blanched green beans, can spaghetti sauce and stewed tomatoes and salsa, and keep a gardening journal to record when I plant things, what works and what doesn't, as well as my canning exploits to refer to from year to year. 


Roasted vegetable and ricotta pizza
I also love that in the book she writes lovingly about cooking. She talks about making her own pasta, making homemade mozzarella, the everyday smell of homemade bread, about favorite salads and casseroles and techniques in the kitchen and it all being very much a part of the pulse of their lives. 

I think cooking can be a really pleasant activity, and a thoughtful thing you do with and for your family. I've read other literature lobbying for the importance of cooking (and I can't wait for a new Michael Pollan book I've pre-ordered on the topic out this month) but this was one of the first I read and she was so eloquent. She questions the prioritizing of quick and easy, and wrote, "if grabbing fast food is the only way to get the kids to their healthy fresh-air soccer practice on time, that's an interesting call." It was refreshing to read something that said you should cook, and you do have time for it, and it is worth it. 

One of the many sensible points about cooking in the book is that if cooking good food becomes a routine (vs. a special occasion), then it becomes easier and more natural. An example is making homemade pizza for dinner Friday nights. They make this simple pizza dough that only needs to rise for half an hour and use whatever toppings they have on hand that are seasonal and/or preserved and delicious. The kids and any friends that are over can weigh in on what they want and help create the pizzas. By making it weekly, the recipe and the practice of making this homemade meal becomes ingrained and effortless. By having no-fuss, fall-back regulars that you always have the ingredients for-- flour, salt, oil, yeast, preserved tomatoes and other good veggies-- as she says, "Takeout is not the only easy way out." Homemade pizza is one way to cook simply, use anything and everything from the garden, and eat well any night.


Roasted red peppers and olives
Feta, caramelized onion, and spinach


Pesto pizza

Pizza with pear, goat cheese, and candied pecans, topped with arugula with lemon vinaigrette
We don't always eat pizza Friday night, but we eat it a lot. But her point about routines is key. I love the idea that cooking is something worth creating routines for. 

Lately, if we're having pizza for dinner, I mix up the dough in the morning before work and let it rise for the 30 - 40 minutes it takes, then plunk it in a bowl and put it in the fridge for the day. Mixing it takes about 2 minutes active time while drinking coffee. When I get home, I cut the ball in half, roll each out, top, and bake.

Pizza Dough
from Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver

3 t yeast
1 1/2 C warm water
3 T olive oil
1 t salt
2 1/2 C all-purpose white flour
2 C whole wheat flour

In stand mixer with dough hook attached, dissolve yeast into warm water and add oil and salt. Mix the flours with each other, then knead them into the liquid mixture. Let dough rise 30 to 40 minutes. (I let it rise in a ball on a floured pizza stone in a warm spot.)

Divide dough in half. Roll each half into a 12-inch round. Using rolling pin to help, slide the round onto a cornmeal-dusted pizza stone. Use your fingers to fold over the perimeter into a crust.

Sprinkle with cheese, then tomatoes, then toppings, then a drizzle of oil and season with salt and pepper or other seasonings (if using tomato sauce rather than tomatoes, do that first, then cheese, then other toppings). Bake at 425 for 15 - 20 minutes until crust is brown and crisp.

Notes on tomatoes for pizza: 
My favorite thing of all is to cover a layer of mozzarella with a layer of fresh sliced tomatoes and then whatever other toppings of choice that go on the pizza. When you don't have fresh tomatoes or sauce, but want that tomato base, here are three things I've done in the winter months:
  1. Frozen plum tomatoes. I slice off the stem end and freeze them whole in freezer bags. Then I take out about 5 or 6 plums per pizza, let them warm up on the counter while the dough is rising. By the time I've rolled out the dough, they are just soft enough to be sliced, but not soft enough to be mushy. I lay them neatly on the pizza and they look so pretty and taste great and you'd never know they'd been in the freezer for months.
  2. Frozen grape/cherry tomatoes. I freeze the incredibly sweet yellow and red grape tomatoes whole in freezer bags. I take out a few handfuls (more than you think for one pizza) and saute them in a pan with some oil and salt and dried basil until they are thawed and some have burst and the excess liquid is gone. They are so delicious and sweet all by themselves with no other toppings on top of a layer of mozzarella. 
  3. Canned tomatoes. One other simple option in lieu of sauce is to simmer in a pan a can of drained diced tomatoes with a tablespoon or so of oil and some salt and until they have soaked up most of the oil. Then spread this on pizza. Or simply drain some canned diced tomatoes and sprinkle those on pizza, drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper. 
Favorite pizza toppings:
  • Mozzarella, tomato slices, fresh (or dried) basil
  • Mozzarella, chopped tomatoes, caramelized onions 
  • Mozzarella, yellow and/or red grape tomatoes simmered with oil, salt, and basil
  • Mozzarella, chopped tomatoes, corn, cheddar, cilantro
  • Mozzarella, crumbled feta, chopped tomatoes, caramelized onion and green pepper, kalamata olives or sliced black olives
  • Mozzarella, chopped or sliced tomatoes, finely chopped spinach or kale or swiss chard (a pile of chard cooks down quite a bit) 
  • Mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, Vermont Smoke and Cure pepperoni (not as healthful as veggies, but it is the best pepperoni!)
  • Roasted vegetables and ricotta cheese-- amazingly delicious and great way to use leftovers (will post this combination in more detail) 
  • Mozzarella, feta, spinach, and caramelized/sauteed onion
  • Pesto, sliced plum tomatoes, and mozzarella
  • Mozzarella, tomatoes, roasted red pepper slices and Kalamata olives
  • Goat cheese, pear, candied walnuts, topped after baking with arugula tossed in lemon vinaigrette

April 8, 2013

Skirt Steak with Grilled Onions and Peppers









I'm a sucker for anything brightened with cilantro or with a squeeze of lime. So no surprise that this recipe won me over immediately. 

Skirt steak is a long, flat cut with great flavor. (We also love the cut with this summer salad.) This makes a perfect summer meal served with corn on the cob, but all these flavors add up to an immensely satisfying whole any time of year. You could serve it with rice or hot tortillas, but we like it with roasted potatoes.

A margarita would be a natural choice to drink with the meal; last weekend we chose instead to pair it with Pahlmeyer Jayson red wine, a velvety, round, big red that is a blend of Cabernet and Merlot that we picked up at the Napa Valley Wine Company last April. It was a nice meal to have while reminiscing about that trip.   

Skirt Steak with Lime, Cilantro, Avocado, and Grilled Onions and Peppers
slightly adapted from Martha Stewart Living, September 2010

Marinade
4 cloves garlic, smashed
2 - 3 T fresh chopped oregano (or 1/3 that amount dried)
1 t salt
generous amount of freshly ground pepper
5 T e-v olive oil
1/4 C lime juice, or juice from 4 limes
1 t sugar
1 skirt steak

Extras
1 onion, sliced into about 4 thick slices
1 green pepper, sliced in thick slices
1 avocado
cilantro, chopped just a bit
optional: corn on the cob and roasted potatoes on the side 

Combine first four marinade ingredients. Mix in oil, lime juice, and sugar. Marinate skirt steak in it.

Brush onions and peppers with oil on both sides and season with salt and pepper (alternatively, you could brush them with some of the extra marinade). On a grill or in the broiler, cook steak and onions and peppers about 4 minutes on each side. Let steak rest about five minutes after cooking. Slice thinly against the grain and serve with all the extras on a big platter. 

April 6, 2013

Feeding a Child



I've always like to cook, but since I began a family the importance of eating well and trying to put good things on the table has had elevated importance. It feels like both a big responsibility and a big motivator to think of everything we do now as building the foundation for Willem's attitudes and habits around food. (And I know I'm biased because this is my hobby, but how he eats and views food seems pretty important since he'll be doing it a few times a day for his whole life.) Having this long-term view of what we are teaching him forces us to be better ourselves. 

I've developed some (passionate, soapbox-type) thoughts on the topic of feeding young children, from a combination of things I've read and our experiences. I know some parents will disagree, perhaps strongly, with some of these, and that's fine. These are some of the routines we've developed in our house. Most of these were obviously not relevant when he still ate baby food. Some of them I think will apply far beyond toddlerhood. This is what works for us right now, so I thought I would share.    





Sit down to eat, and eat together. All our eating times, but especially dinner, have predictable elements that together have become a ritual. He's got his little routine: climb up in his chair, get his bib ready, wait to be pushed in. On the very rare occasion that we've decided to have an adult-only meal after he's in bed, and we plop him at the counter to eat dinner while we're puttering around doing other things, he's a bit unsettled by it. "Why are you not eating? Why are we not eating at the table?"  

Whatever the routine around meals you envision in your house, make everything about it that is reasonable a ritual from an early age. Napkin in the lap, saying "cheers" with your glasses, not starting till everyone is sitting, whatever. Kids love and grab onto routines. When it gets questioned or tested, I like the phrase, "in our house," as in 
Child: "So-and-so puts her feet on the table." 
Parent: "In our house we don't."  

He eats what we eat. Really! We don’t serve separate kid menus. I don’t get out backup meals if he isn’t wild about what we’re having. When he doesn't love dinner, he always still eats enough of the meal that I know he won’t go hungry. He now seems to thoroughly get the idea that what is in front of him is what's on offer. His job is to try things, and our job as parents is to provide decent food at every meal, and some variety within the meal so that there are some choices. From there he gets to learn what he likes and how to pace himself and be an independent eater. The things that are sure hits of course get eaten first, and that's fine (and that's the reason that we say "one piece of cornbread is enough" or he'd eat a meal of just that). But after that he slows down and branches out and ends up making his way around the plate and digging into all of it, to one extent or another. How will he learn what he likes, or learn to try new things, if we only give him things we know he likes?

We feed him minimally processed, real food, that's homemade whenever possible. (Following from this, we try to only eat that ourselves—when we slip, we are careful not to do it in front of him.) We feed him good bread, meat, pasta, fresh fruits, vegetables, dried fruit, nuts, yogurt, cheese, and sometimes, but not every day, delicious well-made treats. We do not feed him crackers, pretzels, candy, many cereals, or other store-bought goodies and snacks with lots of ingredients. I believe babies, and people, develop a taste for what they get used to eating. I know he'll learn of the existence of Go-gurt and Doritos and Cheese Nips eventually and will eat them at his friends' houses and I will have to find a way to relax about that. But I think what's important is getting him accustomed to, and letting him develop a taste for the real stuff now so that the salty, sugary, packaged stuff doesn't win him over.     

Sometimes we serve his meal in a different form than ours to make it more palatable for him, either psychologically or physically/developmentally. For example, when we have a dinner salad, such as this chicken-feta-cucumber one, I serve him all the same things in a deconstructed version, each ingredient in a separate little pile on his plate: one token piece of lettuce (which he eats probably every sixth time, but I think that makes it worth it and putting it there sends the message, someday you’ll eat this just like we do), cheese, cucumber, chicken. Having safe little piles of each thing that he can check out helps him warm up to it better. And you don't want any one item, if they're all mixed together, to make the whole meal a no-go. So when it's easy to just plate his differently to make it more approachable for him, I sometimes do. 

Ours

His
We let him be as independent as possible when he eats. We offer to help when he’s eating something really tricky (like, lately, a half grapefruit with a grapefruit spoon, a tool he thinks is really nifty but can't quite operate himself yet). But otherwise we leave him to himself to go at his own pace and try what he wants the way he wants in his own time. If he wants to take his sandwich apart to eat it, that's fine. If he wants to take some of the tuna out of his tuna melt, that's fine. We do not count bites. We do not say he needs to eat X number of bites before leaving the table. Giving him the space to do his thing and not focusing the conversation on his eating is important.  

We do not push him to eat. I don't believe in encouraging/bribing/nudging/talking up/or otherwise showing that I care too much whether he eats any particular thing. If we push (about food or anything else), he will push back in response just for the sake of doing so, because he is a toddler. If he hasn’t touched a certain thing on his plate, we remind him it’s there, by saying “do you want to try your carrot/turkey/etc?We don’t praise him for eating his vegetables (lest he start to think there is any reason he wouldn’t eat his vegetables), but we do recognize and celebrate when he is “adventurous” by trying the different things on his plate. He'll stuff a leaf of lettuce in his mouth sometimes and grin proudly, saying he's being "ah-VEN-truss." I think that's great and I don't ask for anything more than that. 

Dessert is not a prize for eating. I know a lot of people disagree with this, but we don't think it works well to use dessert as a way to get kids to eat their meal. It makes them not enjoy the savory food for what it is. It causes them to not pay attention to when they feel done, but only to when mom or dad says they've had enough. In our house, with our child, we think it works best to not even mention that dessert exists until we are sure we're done and plates are off the table. Then it's a pleasant surprise that we all can enjoy, but not something he's "earned," not something he expects or thinks is coming every night. For now if he knows dessert is coming it makes it really hard to focus on anything else. He'll need to get past this eventually. But right now the healthiest perspective on dessert in our house is as a surprise extra at the end of some meals. 

Seconds: When he asks for seconds of something, we give it to him without a lot of discussion as long as he has tried most things on his plate. If he hasn’t yet tried something on his plate, we remind him it's there and suggest he try it, and as soon as he does we're happy to serve up seconds. We don't mention it beyond the one bite it takes to "try" something. He would keep going back for more of favorite things, like cheese or bread or fruit, until he burst if we let him. With really popular things like that, we decide where we think enough is enough and try to warn him “one more piece” and then say “that's enough of that.” I think the concept of having had "enough" even when there's more in front of you is a good one to learn.  

An easy way to avoid this is plating meals in the kitchen with portions we are comfortable with, or occasionally by serving the meal in courses-- leaving the biscuits or whatever popular item that might monopolize the meal in the kitchen while bringing the salad or soup or whatever to the table first.  

We do not feed him off our plates. I know this probably sounds like I'm a selfish, food-hoarding meanie. But I swear I'm not. And this one might be really specific to our kid. But we learned it a long time ago. If he thinks everyone's plate is fair game, he can be unbearable when we are eating something he loves (say, biscuits or berries). There was a time when he would gobble his in two seconds and if we still had some on our plate he would throw a fit wanting us to give him some of ours. When we began making a habit of saying, “you ate your ___; this is mine,” it helped us enjoy our meal more because we didn't feel the need to polish off our biscuit in two seconds flat but rather had the freedom to enjoy it bit by bit, and he started to learn and respect that. He doesn't even really acknowledge anymore when I'm still eating my banana and his is long gone; he moves on to the other things in front of him.

We make sure the not stealing off each others' plates goes both ways since we learned that if we cleaned up his plate in his sight, even if he was absolutely done, it caused a bit of a freak out. Willem can eat pretty fast and take rather large bites at times, so we want him to be assured that no one is going to take his food from him if he doesn’t eat it fast enough.

We realize this is a bit rigid and we don't want him to never share. Now that he's old enough to understand some gray area, we have taught him that there are times when people share food. When we go out to gelato or a restaurant, we each like to try a bite of each others' choices and that's part of the experience. 

Food presentation matters: Just because he isn’t interested in a food one way or one day doesn’t mean he won’t another day or in another presentation. I experiment (sometimes even within the same meal or snack) with cutting a food, like carrots, in different sizes or shapes, both to teach him flexibility (I will NOT have a rigid child who demands only crustless peanut-butter sandwiches cut on the diagonal), and because it's interesting to see which presentation is most successful. Months and months ago when raw carrots were a newer idea, I gave him raw carrot on his plate, some of it diced, some as skinny carrot sticks. He liked the little bits and ate all of them and then nibbled on the carrot sticks just a bit. The next time I gave him carrots both ways again, he liked the sticks and didn’t touch the diced. So there you go. I don’t peel apples for him, but I give him apples sometimes whole, sometimes in big chunks, sometimes in skinny slices. Now he'll just eat an apple any way you give it to him. But for a while, he ate all these variations in different amounts on different days. So the bottom line is try different ways, even in the same sitting for newer foods, and notice what goes over well.

Table entertainment: we try for no game playing or toys during meals, telling him that people just eat and talk at the table. We want him to continue to be as relatively pleasant at the table as he currently is and for him to be content with just eating and talking rather than having to start from scratch with this social etiquette when he is older. When games come up (peekaboo, for example, used to from time to time), we promise him we will play after dinner.

No food is ever out of the question (other than what they can't yet physically handle, obviously). Don't ever let yourself think, "oh, my child doesn't like X" or "we tried that, he didn't like it." While there are of course certain favorites (I haven't found a piece of fruit Willem doesn't want to devour), and ones that have never, ever been successful (raw onion) everything in between is dependent upon any number of variables-- how hungry he is, who else is present, whether it's leftover or new, what else is available on the table, his mood, how tired he is, etc, etc. Example: first time he tried avocado he ate half of one, the next six times wouldn't touch it, then we went to a Mexican restuarant and couldn't keep him out of the guacamole. I don't think you should label for kids what they like or don't like as if it's set in stone. They're kids! Let them keep experimenting; make the experimenting the point. Help them see that not all bread/avocado/pineapple/hamburger are created equal and give them many different chances to try things. And even once you're pretty sure he won't eat something (like that raw onion), don't let that stop you from putting a tiny piece of it on his plate if that's what your family is eating for dinner that night. He doesn't have to eat it, but he might surprise you and and try it and it might be the time he likes it. It also provides the chance to teach the important lesson that we don't shout "Ewww!", we don't put unwanted food on the table or drop it on the floor or give it to the dog. We just let it sit without making a fuss if we don't want it, no big deal.

Being done at the table: We always confirm that he is done before cleaning him up. (Sometimes even though he has slowed down, if we ask if he is done he says no and keeps eating. This is especially true with his milk.) On the rare occasions when he is done before we are, we remind him that we all stay at the table until everyone is done. I find that because of the routine of sitting at the table for about a half hour, not just leaping down the moment he is done, he tends to nibble a bit at the things he didn't jump into immediately, and he slows down and has some conversation and tries more things. I don't celebrate or want a clean plate. I just want him to try things, to sit calmly, to be polite, to be open-minded, to have some conversation between bites. 

He's two and a half, so such goals are obviously all a work in progress. But we're laying the foundation!